Friday, June 5, 2015

Rome - The Late Republic

We started our Friday morning with a visit to the Largo Argentina, a square in Rome that used to be home to 4 temples and the Pompey's theater, the first permanent theater in Rome. What is particularly interesting about this square is that, unlike the squares and forums that followed it, the buildings were all somewhat haphazard and were built by different people at different times, with little regard for the grander plan of the square. As previously noted, the theater that was built here was the first of its kind. In Ancient Rome, the tradition was to build theaters out of wood, and then tear or burn them down after the performance was over to preserve the sanctity of the Roman people. Because of this, when Pompey built the theater he added a small "temple" into the top level, in order to give the appearance of something besides a theater. In present day Rome, this square is used as a cat sanctuary. Cats in Rome are allowed to live where they are born. When they find injured cats, they bring them to this sanctuary and help them heal. It essentially serves as the "cat capital" of Rome.

A view of the Largo Argentina from the street above. Pieces of the ancient world's temples that were built here are buried beneath the current city streets. 


We spent the afternoon out of the hot sun (thankfully - it was a scorcher today) in the Centrale Montemartini. The Centrale Montemartini is a museum inside of an old power plant. Sounds weird, right? Well, here's the back story: in 1995 the Capitoline Museum had to be renovated. Rather than close down the museum to the public, because it was so popular they decided to move some of their sculptures and artifacts to this power plant that had been out of use since the 60's. It was so popular that they decided to leave them there, and the Centrale Montemartini is now an extension of the Capitoline Museum. What this phenomenon of mashing together histories and putting places where they don't seem to belong has done is create an incredible juxtaposition of Roman history. In the same moment, you can look at a statue built in 220 BC and a piston made for the power plant in 1920. It is an incredible reminder of the way Rome's history spans time, and that it is continually being added to every day. I was reminded the other day that, now that I am experiencing these things and writing about them, even I am becoming a small piece of Rome's history.

A statue from the Centrale Montemartini placed in front of heavy power equipment. It's incredibly strange to see Ancient Roman art fixed between pieces of heavy machinery. 

Today was an absolutely exhausting day. With the insane heat and the amount of walking we did, I was beat coming back from dinner. As we walked over the bridge back to our apartment, you could look out over the river and see the sun setting behind Vatican City. Rome's beauty - in the most unexpected times and places - never ceases to amaze me.

View from the bridge over the river on our walk home from dinner tonight.
Love all the beautiful colors in the sky 

7 comments:

  1. I love that picture, very beautiful!
    I liked that you mentioned that we are now part of Rome's history, i've never thought of it that way and that's very interesting, and true! I also truly enjoyed Montemartini. Did you have any sculptures in particular that you liked? I personally was a big fan of the unnamed woman nursing her child. It's so refreshing to see everyday sculptures of individuals back then instead of the same-old emperor or god statues. Good post!

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  2. Good post Alexis! that last picture was very cool, the sunset pictures are really cool. Yeah we have done lots of walking and the heat is intense here but I like it because back home we get this heat but not as often and it has been cold lately this spring back home. I do have a question for you, what is your favorite museum so far on this trip?

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  3. Hey, Alexis! I love what you wrote about the museum we visited. It was really strange to see the contrast between the ancient sculptures and the modern machinery, but I thought it just made the museum even more interesting. I also liked how you mentioned the square also being a cat sanctuary, because that seems like such an odd thing. Can't wait to read your next post!

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  4. I love how you mentioned that the museum showed how much Rome's history has spanned time with the juxtaposition of the marble busts and the old machinery reminding us just how far Rome has come since its founding. I also really like how you said writing about Rome makes us a part of its history! I never thought of it that way before and now it makes me even more excited about writing about the monuments we see! Great post! And awesome picture!

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  5. hi Alexis. First of all, that last picture is absolutely gorgeous, I love it. Second, I feel like we have been finding a lot of examples of ecclectic collections of buildingd, especially in the fora. What distinguishes ages is when one guy really pulls an area together in one plan, so the ecclectic nature of the Largo Aregentina was pretty typical. Otherwise, agreed with the rest of your blog, thanks for sharing your experiences!

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  6. Great post- I especially love that last picture you took, that's absolutely stunning! The cat sanctuary was great to visit, it's amazing to consider how much that space has changed from what it was originally intended to be, don't you think? So much of Rome's ancient buildings almost seem "recycled" in some ways as they're repurposed over time- do you think that's a good way to go? Or do you think it's disrespectful to those spaces to have changed the original intent so dramatically over time?

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